How To Put On A Violin Mute
How does one install a wire mute?
Hi everyone,
I purchased a wire mute to supersede the safe Tourte I lost a couple of weeks ago. So far, I've non been able to properly install the new mute. Until now it was not a problem as I did not come across the need for one, simply I merely had a look at our side by side orchestra slice and in that location'south a whole muted passage! Help!
Replies (7)
Greetings,
you are non alone. At that place is a whole thread on this in the archives,
Thank you,
Buri
THe plastic cylinder will be on height of the bridge when the mute is doing its matter. To hold it in place the little wire "lips" to thje sides go under the afterlengths of the D and A strings.
To accept the mute out of muting position, just slide information technology toward the tailpiece.
I constitute ii disadvantages with these kinds of mutes:
(ane) they suppress some contribution of the string afterlengths and the tailpiece "assemblyy" to instrument resonance.
(2) They tend to wear out the cord windings because of sliding the mute on them.
I've got both a tourte and wire mute. I went through the aforementioned frustrations a few months agone when i leant my tourte to a violist and tried to put on the wire one myself. Here's my attempt to explain:
Brand certain the plastic office is attached to the prongs. While installing the mute the plastic thingie shouldn't dislodge. Slip the mute over your A so that the angled border is under your string and the straight edge is on superlative of the cord, sitting right abreast it (on the exterior). And so pull the other side gently around the D so that the angular part grabs nether the D.
Ordinarily I adopt the tourte, simply I establish that the wire i helps eliminate a wolftone I have way up on my G string. An added plus.
You may wish to consider the SPECTOR mute...all safety and slides betwixt the D and A strings...no rattle, no wear of windings and simple to install or detach yet stays on the fiddle at all times. Just slides upwards over the border of the bridge. About four bucks from Metropolitan Music. Mine sounds and works great on one fiddle but isn't then effective on another that I play.
I conquer with peter, I have had the spector mute for several months at present, and have not even come close to losing information technology, doesn't produce whatsoever rattle or unwanted sounds when not in use, and it doesn't wear the strings out.
oh and, with my wire mute, the metal parts in the plastic piece (great description right?) started to drift to one side, producing an uneven sound when muted, and evetually the whole thing started to come undone.
The spector mute doesn't accept any of these problems, every bit it is one slice of plastic, like a tourte mute, only better since it stays firmly in place on the string when not in use (no rattle).
Here is a link to a picture of the spector mute in activity:
http://www.jhs.co.uk/Super%20Sensitive/coppermute.jpg
Thanks guys! Afterwards reading your answers, I retrieve I'll go a new condom one ;-)
The SPECTOR mute rides the same "track" between the A and D string afterlengths that a wire mute does. Yet, the SPECTOR "requires" fairly shut tolerances of inter-string spacing. If the bridge notches are too shut together, the mute volition fit tightly and may squeltch the tone some in it's rest position (since the afterlengths will exist damped) and if the inter-string spacing is too largre, the mute could rattle.
My ain experience has been that my strings must be inside tolerances, and I've got SPECTORS on several violins - just the fit is noticibly unlike (by experience) on the different violins.
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